Pamplona: Running of the Bulls

The bulls are housed each night in a corral about 825 meters (1/2 mile) away from the Plaza de Toros. Every morning at 8am, the bulls are released from their corral and led along a set course through the streets of Pamplona to the bullring. If you plan on participating, we suggest walking the course the night before to understand the route and be better prepared for the run. If possible, it’s a good idea to have an experienced runner guide you through and give you pointers.

The course is broken into the following segments:

Calle de Santo Domingo. This street marks the point where the runners gather and the pandemonium begins. The initial stretch leads the bulls from their corral up Santo Domingo to the Plaza del Ayuntamiento, where they’ll make their first turn left onto Mercaderes. Santo Domingo is considered the most dangerous part of the course because the bulls sprint out of their corrals and run very close together. In fact, it is on this street that most injuries occur.

Calle de Mercaderes. Mercaderes is a very short street that leads to a sharp right turn onto Calle Estafeta. This second turn is another treacherous corner that often trips up the bulls, and subsequently the runners. Traditionally, the bulls tend to run on the left side of the street and, because they can’t get enough traction with their hooves on the cobblestone, they have a difficult time making that sharp turn. The result can be chaotic and dangerous as bulls slip and fall into walls and people.

Calle de la Estafeta. The longest stretch of the course that leads to the finish line, Estafeta is a straight path on which the bulls pick up speed, gain ground, and eventually overtake the runners.

Telefónica and Callejón. Veering left at the end of Estafeta is the short stretch of Telefónica, which leads to the narrow Callejón – the final entrance into the bullring. Many runners wait at Telefónica to “escort” the bulls into the ring, but this can be a particularly dangerous idea given the very narrow path through which the bulls and the runners must pass to enter the bullring.

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If you plan on running, it’s important to have the proper clothes and shoes for both practical and traditional reasons. At the risk of stating the obvious, we should first remind you that you’ll need a good pair of sneakers.

Aside from that, you’ll want to wear the same traditional garb worn by local participants – a white top and white pants, a red kerchief (pañuelo) tied around your neck, and a red sash (faja) worn around your waist. The pañuelo and the faja can be purchased in town for a few Euros, and although they’ll be a bit more expensive, they do have the name of Pamplona on them and make great souvenirs.

If you’re uncomfortable with the traditional attire, feel free to wear a t-shirt and shorts – just make sure you’re comfortable sprinting in them. In recent years, people have been getting more creative with their wardrobes for the run, so you’ll see costumes, funny hats, headbands, and other assorted fashion statements. If you choose to do likewise, remember that this isn’t a leisurely run or a Halloween parade – the bulls are real, they’re angry, and they’re chasing you. Make sure your costume doesn’t impede your vision or your ability to run like hell.

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The run is three to four minutes of pure adrenaline, and the course is signaled by a series of four rockets that notify runners and spectators of the different stages of the run. The first rocket alerts the crowd that the bulls have been released from their corrals, while the second rocket, fired just seconds later, signifies that all of the bulls are now on the course. The third rocket notifies the crowd that the bulls have entered the Plaza de Toros, and the fourth lets spectators know that the bulls have been cleared from the bullring, the course is clear, and the run is over.

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Very Early:	At around 5 or 6am, make your way to the top of Calle de Santo Domingo to check out the corrals where the bulls are housed. There are always other runners and spectators hanging out there, so it’s a good way to meet some fellow participants and get a close look at the six ferocious bulls you’re about to face. For the full experience, you can also walk the hill where the bulls charge out at the beginning of the run.
7am:	By this time, the course has been cleared of trash and remnants of the previous day’s festivities, and fences have been put up to set the course.
7:30am:	The runners are moved up the course to keep them away from the bull corrals.
7:55am:	With just a few minutes to go before the run, the course is now packed wall-to-wall with spectators and participants. The runners take a moment to look toward a nearby church, pray for their safety, and say a chant in honor of San Fermín.
7:58–7:59am:	At this point, with just seconds to spare, quite a few hopeful runners lose their nerve and either leave the course or start running toward the bullring before the bulls are released. If you don’t feel the adrenaline now, try running it backwards (no, really, don’t…though it has been done).

Tips for Runners: We suggest starting at the end of Calle de Santo Domingo, on the south side of the Plaza del Ayuntamiento just before the first turn. There, you’ll find a friendly crowd of mostly Americans and Australians to hang out with in the final minutes before what could and probably will be the craziest experience of your life. Talk to the people around you, ask the advice of veteran runners, and be sure to loosen up your body, stretch out, and keep your head about you. Most importantly, keep track of the time – if you aren’t completely prepared, you may just freeze up when you hear that first rocket signifying that the bulls are coming your way.

Tips for Spectators: To get a clear view of the run, it’s best to stake out your position on the course by 7am. If you’re at a section of the course with a double fence, stand behind the second fence, away from the course – the area between the fences will be cleared of people just before the run, and those people will have to bunker down behind the second fence. A popular spot from which to view the run is the right turn from Mercaderes onto Estafeta. It’s an excellent place to see some real action, but it will be hard to get down to the bullring before it is closed off. Another option is to grab a spot right at Telefónica or Callejón, at the end of the course near the entrance to the bullring.

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If you’ve never seen a bull run before, let us clear up any misperceptions you may have about large beasts and their relative quickness: the indisputable fact is that bulls run extremely fast and will simply not be outrun by a human being.

To get a sense of just how fast they cover the course, pick up a local paper where you can read about the bulls and see their finishing times for the previous day’s run.

Also be aware that following the bulls are six relatively harmless oxen with bells around their necks trotting at a decent pace, so don’t be surprised to see more animals on the course once the bulls have passed.

At 8am sharp, the first rocket sounds and most of the runners begin sprinting down the course. Seconds later, the second rocket sounds and chaos ensues – no one knows for sure where the bulls are, so everyone runs as if the bulls are right behind them.

The bulls pick up steam and eventually catch up with and pass the runners on Santo Domingo, Mercaderes, and Estafeta, sometimes falling violently on the turns. Some of the runners remain well ahead of the bulls throughout the course, some let the bulls pass and just run behind them, and others choose to run right alongside the animals, hitting them with rolled-up newspapers – which, by the way, is a great way to call an angry bull’s attention toward hurting you specifically. And those runners who can’t get out of the way fast enough either get gored or knocked down.

The bulls and runners ultimately make their way to the last, and possibly toughest, obstacle on the course – the Callejón, whose opening is quite narrow considering all the people and animals trying to get through. Once the bulls are inside the ring, the third and fourth rockets are fired and the run is over. If you’ve chosen to run and you’ve made it into the ring unscathed, pat yourself on the back, double-check your special parts, and be proud of your accomplishment.

Tips for Runners: The run is not something to take lightly, so if you don’t feel your best, either get off the course – policemen and Red Cross personnel will help you through the fence at any time – or run to the ring before the bulls get on the course. Opting out will win you some jeers from the crowd, but a hurt ego is much better than the alternative. However, if you stick to your decision to participate, then the best time to begin running is after the second rocket sounds. Starting your run at Plaza Ayuntamiento should put you in the bullring at the best possible time, right behind the bulls. The key to giving yourself the best opportunity to complete the run unharmed (although there are absolutely no guarantees) is to stay out of the middle of the course. This may seem easy and obvious, but you aren’t just running with the bulls; you are running with thousands of other people who are running for their lives and would sacrifice you to keep themselves out of danger. Keep that in mind throughout the course and fight to stay as close to the fence as possible. And remember that you will not outrun the bulls – as we mentioned before, this is a fact. They will overtake you at some point during the run. Keep one eye over your shoulder, because the first time you see a bull behind you, you’ll experience the biggest adrenaline rush of your life. When that first bull comes into sight, get all the way to the side of the course. Do not touch or try to grab the bulls as they pass you, do not carry anything with you like a backpack, and do not try to videotape the run or take pictures. And if you fall down, cover your head and lie still in the fetal position until trouble has passed.

Tips for Spectators: Try to get as close to the bullring as possible so that, after the run, you have a better chance of getting in to witness even more mayhem. Tickets to enter cost *4 to *6, but the rules are pretty lax at this point, so you may be able to just work your way in.

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Once the runners have entered the Plaza de Toros and the six bulls have been cleared, several young bulls with either covered or unsharpened horns are released into the crowded bullring. Some participants show honor and simply run around with the bulls as if they were matadors; others are less respectful and taunt or hit the animals – and the crowd will loudly voice its approval or disapproval, respectively.

This part of the run can be quite entertaining as some of the more honorable runners really put on a show. Once the excitement is over, the party continues back on the streets.

Tips for Runners: It’s not too difficult to stay away from the bulls in the ring, but be careful when multiple bulls are released and be aware of where each one is at all times. You can climb over the fence to get out of the ring at any time.

Tips for Spectators: Entering the bullring at the end of the run can be difficult given the crowd of runners following the bulls into the ring. With a little patience, however, you should be able to squeeze in within fifteen minutes or so as the crowd in the narrow passageway thins out. Once you’ve reached your seat, keep an eye out for the area where the young bulls enter the ring. You’ll probably see quite a few runners lie down in front of the entrance, forcing the bulls to hurdle them – a daring yet entertaining display.

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