Bagatelle

BEVERLY GROVE, LOS ANGELES –

The original New York Bagatelle is legendary for its champagne brunches, and similar notoriety (infamy?) has come to the LA branch of this upscale bistro, giving LA’s fashionable weekenders another excuse to call in sick on Mondays.

Reservations are a must for this Sunday-only offering, when the vanilla French toast and praline-encrusted pancakes all end up drenched by dapper Dons and wafer-thin fashion hounds as they haphazardly spray bottles of Veuve, dip into $250 punch bowls, and dance in their Barolos and sky-high Dodikas to resident DJs spinning upbeat – and very loud – mixes.

Things are a bit more staid during the week, though it remains a sophisticated little haunt where trendy types can pregame over French fare and intricate cocktails. Hollywood insiders crowd the tables with small plates of quail eggs or the signature pickled pork belly, while booths around the edge of the room give haughty European visitors and larger groups more space to enjoy their whole roasted chicken and truffle fries.

Crisp tablecloths cover the tables in the open dining area, a sparsely decorated space save for the ornate chandeliers and scattered pop prints of Ziggy Stardust and the Mona Lisa, while the marble bar in back is regularly lined with models and actors sipping creative cocktails like La Girl From Lima, a jalapeño-infused liqueur with passion fruit puree.

DJs spin under the din of conversation most nights, and as the evening wears on, the bar crowd usually spills into the restaurant until everyone breaks off to hit the clubs.

They all return on Sundays, however. Like very attractive moths to Bagatelle’s flame.