Party Earth Review In operation since 1885, Les Puces de Saint-Ouen – commonly known as “Les Puces”– is one of the largest flea and antique markets in the world, attracting more than a hundred thousand visitors every weekend. Covering several... ... read full review
140 Rue des Rosiers
4 Line: Porte de Clignancourt; Line 13: Porte de St Ouen
01 40 12 32 58
M 11am–5pm, Sa 9am–6pm, Su 10am–6pm; On Mondays, many stalls close early or do not open
Saint-Ouen, Paris –
In operation since 1885, Les Puces de Saint-Ouen – commonly known as “Les Puces”– is one of the largest flea and antique markets in the world, attracting more than a hundred thousand visitors every weekend.
Covering several acres, the area is actually a collection of several distinct markets (marchés), with stalls and shops peddling wares that range from cheap duds to museum-quality artifacts.
Used clothing, African objects, and budget-friendly household goods dominate the blocks closest to the Porte de Clignancourt metro, but further north along a wild maze of side streets, visitors stumble into a labyrinth of Aladdin’s caves, where stallholders and shopkeepers display pricey antiques and furniture alongside vintage clothing, jewelry, and the odd record or electronic shop.
Everything from beads and dresses to spare engine parts can be found in the winding alleyways of Marché Vernaison, while moneyed retirees of West Paris head straight for Marché Biron to browse old furniture that costs more than a college education.
The airy Marché Dauphine offers up similar pricey collectibles, but also attracts hordes of students and literary types with its first-edition books, rare art posters, colorful rugs, and veritable forest of potted plants.
The streets that radiate out from the main thoroughfare of Rue des Rosiers are home to every sellable object imaginable, at every price imaginable – and the cacophonous shouts of both sellers and buyers that fill the air all day remind visitors that haggling is actively encouraged.
Worth the trek just for the experience, Les Puces de Saint-Ouen is a place that visitors leave either empty-handed or with empty-pockets, but certainly never disappointed.
Don’t be put off by the hordes of street sellers and fake designers that greet you outside the Porte de Clignancourt metro. March right on past, under the overpass and down the Rue des Rosiers, where the greatest variety of shops and stalls can be found. You can also take Line 13 to the Porte de Saint-Ouen station. It’s a little further walk to Les Puces, but you’ll avoid most of the kitsch.
Diverse mix of everyone from Parisian grande dames seeking 18th-century furniture to vinyl-and-vintage harvesting hipsters, rough-and-ready-to-barter locals, and savvy tourists. All ages.
Tons of people-watching and whatever music the stall owners choose to blare.
Smattering of crêpe and panini spots, plus a handful of cafés, small supermarkets, and patisseries in the vicinity. While the area is safe by day, visitors should be wary of pickpockets in the crowds.
Marché Vernaison and Marché Antica: a vast pair of markets home to everything from Chinese imports, antique toys, beads, clothing, and art-deco furnishings to the piston rod from a Peugeot Citroën and other rare engine parts.
Marché Biron: antique furniture galore, as well as a massive assortment of rare posters, art, and rugs.
Marché Dauphine: everything from pricey collectibles and jewelry to vintage clothes and a cozy café and restaurant.
Marché Serpette: more clothes, housewares, furniture, mirrors, vases, clocks, and more.
Marché Paul Bert: many items from the 50s and 60s, mostly on the pricier side.
L’Entrepôt: staircases, fireplaces, ornate columns, and other architectural bits that will no doubt require substantial delivery fees.
Marché Jules Valles: small but very serious collection of antiques.
From $1 t-shirts to bedroom sets that would turn the average credit card to dust.
Saturdays and Sundays for the busiest scene, or Mondays for a more relaxed vibe. It should be noted that a number of shops close early or don’t open at all on Mondays.
Cimetière de Saint-Ouen (13 Avenue du Cimètiere) is a beautiful cemetery just north of Les Puces that provides a quiet retreat from the crowds.